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Spandex
Spandex fibers seem to be everywhere, in every type of clothing.
It is not a new fiber. Research began during World War II when
the supply of natural rubber was not readily available. Spandex
is the elastic fiber you've been used to in intimate apparel,
socks and swimsuits. But now it is in cotton, cotton/polyester,
and silk blouses and knit tops; in pants and skirts with all fibers
- wool, cotton, cotton or rayon blends; in wool or blended suits
and jackets; in active sportswear and even in shoe fabric And
the % are a lot higher.
Spandex can be added lengthwise, crosswise or both directions
in both knits and wovens.
Spandex fibers seem to be everywhere, in every type of clothing.
It is not a new fiber. Research began during World War II when
the supply of natural rubber was not readily available. Spandex
is the elastic fiber you've been used to in intimate apparel,
socks and swimsuits. But now it is in cotton, cotton/polyester,
and silk blouses and knit tops; in pants and skirts with all fibers
- wool, cotton, cotton or rayon blends; in wool or blended suits
and jackets; in active sportswear and even in shoe fabric And
the % are a lot higher.
Spandex can be added lengthwise, crosswise or both directions
in both knits and wovens.
Fashion silhouettes have gone tighter to the body, slimmer. The
addition of spandex allows freedom of movement and comfort while
looking trim and neat. You can pour yourself into those pants
and still sit down....and breath. This is called comfort stretch.
Power stretch has moved from the lingerie drawer to active sportswear.
All major sports stars use spandex for its support as well as
movement with their very functional "panty girdles" to reduce
muscle injury.
Spandex is laid-in with every other yarn in a weft jersey knit
to give crosswise elasticity. This is used for knit tops of cotton,
manmade fibers, wool or silk. In warp knits like tricot, spandex
can be added along with the lengthwise yarns to give more of a
power knit construction.
The US/Canada generic name for this elastomeric fiber is spandex
but the name elastane is also common in the global marketplace.
Spandex is any synthetic fiber composed of at least 85% segmented
polyurethane. US manufacturers and trademarks are:Lycra
by DuPont, Dorlastan byBayer
Company and Glospan and Cleerspan by Globe Manufacturing Co..
Textile designers have a new range of fiber sizes and yarns
available to them.They also have manufacturing equipment that
can better handle the finer bare spandex fibers. This means lighter
fabrics with hidden spandex. Stockings with 15% spandex are supersheer
rather than the old support hose. The size of the fiber and amount
added are determined by the performance characteristics desired.
A fabric with areas of added spandex and areas without any spandex
will have instant puckers as manufacturing tensions are released.
The design possibilities are endless.
The greatest property of spandex fibers is elasticity. They
have 99% recovery at 200% stretch. But they are fairly weak in
relation to other fibers. The melting point is about 450 dregrees
F with a sticking point about 340 degrees F (much lower than polyester).
Yellowing and loss of strength occurs with prolonged sunlight,
time and acid fumes in the air. Fiber resistance to body and cosmetic
oils and to aging has improved in more recent fiber developments.
The use of heat is the major care concern when spandex is part
of the fabric. Cool water washing is easy, but repeated use of
a hot dryer will deteriorate the fiber. Chlorine bleach should
never be used. Ironing temperatures should not exceed 300*F (the
synthetic setting) on a hand iron. Steam pressing at the drycleaner
will also be detrimental over time. So techniques normally used
for a cotton shirt for example must be modified for the new sleek
looking 95% cotton 5% spandex shirt. And over time, the fiber
will degrade...just like those old socks, underwear and bathing
suits.
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